Frequently asked questions
Get answers to the most frequently asked questions about the Squirt Cycling Products range, including user instructions and technical issues. Click on the product category below and find your questions and answers.
- Squirt Barrier Balm
- Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner
- Squirt Chain Lube
- Squirt E-bike Chain Wax
- Squirt Low Temperature Chain Lube
- Squirt Performance Hot Wax
- Squirt SEAL Tyre Sealant
A typical hot-wax treatment removes approximately 3–4 grams of wax from the pot.
This means a 500-gram bag can coat many chains when done simultaneously, especially if the wax is kept clean and is not overheated.
It is recommended to dry the chain as soon as possible after washing.
If available, use compressed air to remove trapped water from between the rollers and side plates. Alternatively, wipe the chain thoroughly with a clean microfibre cloth and allow it to dry.
Generally, leaving a wet waxed chain standing for extended periods can result in light surface rust, particularly on exposed chain surfaces.
We have not formally tested compatibility with other brands’ drip waxes, as our recommendation is to use Squirt Performance Hot Wax together with the Squirt drip-wax range.
Excessive wax build-up usually occurs for two main reasons:
The wax or chain was too cold during coating.
If the chain is removed before both the chain and wax have reached the recommended 85–95 °C range, the wax can begin to solidify too quickly on the outer surfaces. This leaves a thicker external coating instead of allowing more of the molten wax to penetrate into the chain. That excess wax, which is now on the outer surface of the chain, rubs off onto the chainring, cassette and derailleur pulleys.
Too much or too frequent drip-wax top-up is applied.
If drip wax is added before the chain actually needs it, or if too much is applied at each top-up, it may lead to excessive buildup on the other drivetrain components. This is because the amount of wax remaining inside the chain from the Hot Wax plus the top-up maybe too much for the chain to absorb entirely into the cavities. It then remains on the outside of the chain, where it is carried onto the cassette and pulley wheels and gradually builds up.
A hard-bristled brush can be used on the cassette and derailleur pulleys after the first ride to remove excess wax that has been pushed out of the chain and is no longer contributing much to lubrication.
This is normal — you’re just seeing what also happens on the road or trail (but goes unnoticed). Due to the softer wax composition of the Hot Wax, much less shedding occurs when compared to some other immersive waxes. The black pieces are shed wax being released as the wax is pushed out of the chain internals and breaks down. On trainers, more wax may accumulate on the chain because there’s less vibration to help it shed.
Yes. Some colour variation between batches is normal and is no cause for concern. The wax may range in appearance from pale yellow to light green. This variation can occur because the natural colour of the raw waxes may differ slightly from batch to batch, as can the colour of some of the additives used in the formulation. The variation is more noticeable with Squirt Performance Hot Wax because our additives and friction modifiers do not turn the wax dark grey or black, as is the case with some other hot-wax products.
Yes. Some discolouration of the wax over time is normal. The colour can change because of dirt and wear particles carried back into the wax by the chain, as well as oxidation and general ageing caused by repeated heating cycles.
A darker wax bath does not automatically mean the wax is unusable. Good chain-cleaning practices before every rewax, such as the Deep-clean explained elsewhere in these FAQ’s, will help keep contamination to a minimum and extend the useful life of the wax.
A temperature-controlled multi-cooker or cooker with a sous-vide function is the easiest option because it provides good temperature control. Dedicated small wax melting pots can also be used, but it was found that some cases, these pots do not have adequate heating capacity or accurate temperature control, and we recommend using a separate digital kitchen thermometer.
A basic slow cooker can also work well, but we recommend using a digital kitchen thermometer to check the actual wax temperature and determine which setting keeps it within the 85–95 °C range.
An old pot on an electric stove can also be used if the wax is heated slowly and monitored carefully. Avoid high heat, which can create local hot spots, and avoid using an open flame.
Rice cookers are generally not recommended because they can heat aggressively and overshoot the required temperature.
A brief accidental temperature overshoot does not necessarily mean the wax is ruined. The 100 °C limit is there to minimise accelerated oxidation and degradation of the wax and its additives. Prolonged or repeated overheating is more of a concern than a brief accidental spike. If the wax has briefly exceeded 100 °C, it can generally still be used. Avoid repeated overheating and use a digital thermometer to monitor the actual wax temperature.
Heat Squirt Performance Hot Wax to 85–95 °C, with 93–95 °C being the preferred operating range. Do not allow the wax to exceed 100 °C. It is important that the chain itself also reaches the target temperature. If a cold chain is added to already-hot wax, leave it submerged for around 3–5 minutes while gently swishing it. This allows the chain and wax to equalise in temperature and ensures proper penetration. This is especially important if only a small amount of wax is used as the wax cools down quickly, often by as much as 10 °C, when a cold chain is submerged. If a clean chain is placed in the pot from the start and heats together with the wax, around 30-60 seconds of swishing is generally sufficient once the target temperature is reached.
As a general guideline, around 25–30 reheating cycles is reasonable.
The wax does not suddenly stop working after a specific number of cycles, but repeated heating, oxidation and contamination will gradually affect its condition and performance. Ensure the chain is cleaned as per these FAQ guidelines before every rewax and avoiding temperatures above 100 °C will help maximise the useful life of the wax.
No. The important thing is to use enough wax to completely submerge the chain during the Hot Wax treatment. In many cases, using only a portion of the bag, such as one-third to one-half, is good practice. This limits the amount of fresh wax exposed to any contamination that may be introduced into the melting pot during repeated treatments. When the wax in the pot shows clear signs of excessive contamination or performance degradation on the bike is noticeable, discard the old wax and replace it with fresh wax from the remainder in the bag. This approach can help extend the useful life of the full 500-gram pack.
Squirt should be stored between 40℉ and 95℉ with the cap on. If it freezes (below 32℉, 0℃) or dries out, it becomes thick. It can be restored to a creamy liquid by adding a little water and shaking it up (normally about 10% of water).
Even though it is ideal for riding in cold conditions, Squirt Low Temperature chain Lube should be stored between 40℉ and 95℉ with the cap on. If it freezes (below 32℉, 0℃) or dries out, it becomes thick. It can be restored to a creamy liquid by adding a little water and shaking it up (normally about 10% of water).
Yes, you can do an on-bike clean after a wet and muddy ride if you do not want to do a complete Hot Wax reset. However, dirt is usually transported deep into the internal parts of a chain after a wet and muddy ride, so it is advised to do a full deep-clean reset.
A clamp-on chain cleaner, such as the Park Tool CG-2.4, with Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner can clear most of the dirt. Two cleaning cycles are usually sufficient to remove surface contaminant from the side plates and any dirt trapped inside the chain that can be removed and encapsulated, will be rinsed out by the Bike Cleaner solution. Rinse the chain thoroughly with clean water, then make sure it is as dry as possible before applying one of our drip waxes according to the product instructions.
Ho do I dry my chain on the bike?
Leave the bike in the sun for a couple of hours to allow as much as possible of the trapped water to evaporate. Alternatively, use compressed air to remove as much water as possible from the chain. If neither option is available and you are in a hurry, bounce the bike several times to shed as much excess water as possible, then wipe the outside of the chain thoroughly with a clean microfibre cloth. Once the chain is dry to the touch, apply a thin coat of Squirt drip wax as top-up and allow it to dry properly before riding.
If stored under recommended conditions, the lube will last for many years. Stability samples of older than 15 years still retain functionality.
If stored under recommended conditions, the lube will last for many years.
- Ensure the chain is dry.
- Clean the chain while on the bike by running it through a microfibre cloth that had been wetted with some isopropyl alcohol (IPA). This removes the bulk of the dust and dirt from the outside of the chain and prevents it from being transported into the chain by the drip wax.
- Shake bottle and apply to inside of DRY chain while turning the cranks.
- It is not necessary to wipe off the excess lube from the chain. However, if you do find that the dried wax accumulates excessively on the derailleur pulleys and cassette after a couple of rides, a wipe-off after application may help prevent this.
- Allow the chain to dry completely before cycling – especially in wet conditions.
Yes. This is how we recommend using the two products together.
Squirt Performance Hot Wax is used as the base treatment, and Squirt drip wax can then be applied as a maintenance top-up when the chain begins to sound dry.
As a general guideline, one normally gets the distances below from a hot wax treatment. The chain can then be topped-up with drip wax.
- Dry road riding: around 800–1000 km (500–625 miles) or more per hot-wax application.
- Dry gravel and dirt riding: around 250–300 km (150–200 miles) or more per hot-wax application.
From anecdotal testing, we have found that you can typically use around 3–4 drip-wax top-ups before having to do another full hot-wax reset.
Avoid applying drip wax too frequently, as excess product can accumulate on the outside of the chain and derailleur pulleys.
All our chain lubes are biodegradable wax/water emulsions together with additives to prevent component wear. We continually monitor the quality of the waxes we use to ensure we meet the highest standards and legislative compliance. Using newer generation fully refined waxes can result in natural separation of the emulsion if left standing for long periods of time. If you find that your bottle of Squirt Chain Lube has a visible separation layer in the bottom, this is normal. When shaken well before application, this does not affect the performance of the lube. For optimal performance, follow the user application instructions on the bottle label or on the section in this FAQ.
The small black particles are normal on stationary trainers. This also happens when on the road or trails, one just does not see it. It is the hard-wax components of Squirt shedding from the chain. Excess wax and dirt trapped sheds via this method. You may find that more wax accumulates on the chain of your trainer – this is due the chain not vibrating/shaking enough to promote shedding. Our biodegradability rating is therefore important as it would end up in the natural environment.
To get the full benefit and maximum service life from Squirt Performance Hot Wax, we recommend deep-cleaning the chain before every full hot-wax application. Deep-cleaning before the chain goes back into the wax pot helps minimise the amount of dirt and contamination carried into the wax. The cleaner the chain is, the cleaner the wax bath remains and the longer it will continue to perform as intended. Contamination can accelerate wax ageing and degradation, so keeping the chain clean before each rewax is an important part of maintaining consistent performance.
- Remove the chain from the bike and submerge it in approximately 400-500 ml of boiling water with one 30 ml sachet of Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate.
- Agitate the chain for 5–10 minutes while the water is boiling. The boiling water helps melt and remove the bulk of the old wax, while the cleaner lifts and encapsulates the remaining dirt and contamination from the chain. If the water was found to be very dirty, repeat this step.
- Rinse the chain thoroughly with clean water, then dry it as much as possible using compressed air or a clean microfibre cloth.
- Follow this with a quick 60-second rinse in isopropyl alcohol (IPA). A simple method is to place the chain in a wide-mouthed drinking bottle or glass jar with a lid, add enough IPA to cover the chain, shake the container vigorously, then remove the chain and allow it to dry.
- Next, follow standard coating instructions from here: Squirt Performance Hot Wax Application Instructions
The remaining IPA can be retained for future rinses. Any dirt or contamination from the rinse will settle to the bottom of the jar in time, allowing the clearer IPA above it to be decanted into a second container for reuse. When using IPA, work in a well-ventilated area and keep it away from heat, sparks and open flames.
De-greasing is not necessary when you’ve been using Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube. It does not form a black build-up like oils that traps dirt to accelerate chain wear. It does not smudge and stays dry. Brush off with dry brush if needed and remove occasional build-up from rear derailleur wheels with a toothpick.
We generally do not advise too frequent deep-cleaning as it removes all embedded wax from inside the chain and a two-coat reapplication of the lube will be required as per the application instructions. However, cleaning should be handled on a case-by-case basis such as when you hear the chain grinding after a muddy ride, because this implies that excessive dirt entered the chain that needs to be washed out.
On bike cleaning
For on-bike cleaning, usually two rounds using a clamp-on type cleaner (such as Park Tool CG-2.4) and our Squirt biodegradable Bike Cleaner product is adequate. Rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Thorough Cleaning
For a more intensive clean, use about 1-2 litres of boiling water and pour slowly over the bottom span of the chain (between the rear derailleur and chainring) while turning the cranks backwards. This melts the wax and rinses it out of the chain together with trapped dirt. Follow this up with a couple rounds using the clamp-on type cleaner until the cleaning solution is not visibly dirty anymore. Always rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Deep Cleaning
For deep cleaning, the chain can be removed and degreased with a couple of rounds of soaking/shaking/rinsing in an organic solvent like kerosene or white spirits or a dedicated degreaser product. Follow this up with a rinse in solvent like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or methylated spirits to remove any possible residue left by the degreasers and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions. Discard all chemicals in an environmentally responsible way. Specialist workshops have ultrasonic cleaners that work well, and the user instruction of the device should be followed.
De-greasing is not necessary when you’ve been using Squirt Low Temperature Chain Lube. It does not form a black build-up like oils that traps dirt to accelerate chain wear. It does not smudge and stays dry. Brush off with dry brush if needed and remove occasional build-up from rear derailleur wheels with a toothpick.
We generally do not advise too frequent deep-cleaning as it removes all embedded wax from inside the chain and a two-coat reapplication of the lube will be required as per the application instructions. However, cleaning should be handled on a case-by-case basis such as when you hear the chain grinding after a muddy ride, because this implies that excessive dirt entered the chain that needs to be washed out.
On bike cleaning
For on-bike cleaning, usually two rounds using a clamp-on type cleaner (such as Park Tool CG-2.4) and our Squirt biodegradable Bike Cleaner product is adequate. Rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Thorough Cleaning
For a more intensive clean, use about 1-2 litres of boiling water and pour slowly over the bottom span of the chain (between the rear derailleur and chainring) while turning the cranks backwards. This melts the wax and rinses it out of the chain together with trapped dirt. Follow this up with a couple rounds using the clamp-on type cleaner until the cleaning solution is not visibly dirty anymore. Always rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Deep Cleaning
For deep cleaning, the chain can be removed and degreased with a couple of rounds of soaking/shaking/rinsing in an organic solvent like kerosene or white spirits or a dedicated degreaser product. Follow this up with a rinse in solvent like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or methylated spirits to remove any possible residue left by the degreasers and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions. Discard all chemicals in an environmentally responsible way. Specialist workshops have ultrasonic cleaners that work well, and the user instruction of the device should be followed.
De-greasing is not necessary when you’ve been using Squirt E-Bike Chain Wax. It does not form a black build-up like oils that traps dirt to accelerate chain wear. It does not smudge and stays dry. Brush off with dry brush if needed and remove occasional build-up from rear derailleur wheels with a toothpick.
We generally do not advise too frequent deep-cleaning as it removes all embedded wax from inside the chain and a two-coat reapplication of the lube will be required as per the application instructions. However, cleaning should be handled on a case-by-case basis such as when you hear the chain grinding after a muddy ride, because this implies that excessive dirt entered the chain that needs to be washed out.
On bike cleaning
For on-bike cleaning, usually two rounds using a clamp-on type cleaner (such as Park Tool CG-2.4) and our Squirt biodegradable Bike Cleaner product is adequate. Rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Thorough Cleaning
For a more intensive clean, use about 1-2 litres of boiling water and pour slowly over the bottom span of the chain (between the rear derailleur and chainring) while turning the cranks backwards. This melts the wax and rinses it out of the chain together with trapped dirt. Follow this up with a couple rounds using the clamp-on type cleaner until the cleaning solution is not visibly dirty anymore. Always rinse well with clean water and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions.
Deep Cleaning
For deep cleaning, the chain can be removed and degreased with a couple of rounds of soaking/shaking/rinsing in an organic solvent like kerosene or white spirits or a dedicated degreaser product. Follow this up with a rinse in solvent like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or methylated spirits to remove any possible residue left by the degreasers and reapply two coats of lube as per the application instructions. Discard all chemicals in an environmentally responsible way. Specialist workshops have ultrasonic cleaners that work well, and the user instruction of the device should be followed.
It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application – the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.
It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application – the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.
This depends on riding conditions. In general, when the chain begins to sound dry or shifting is not smooth, quick and crisp anymore, it is a good indication that a reset is due.
As with all chain lubricants, Squirt Performance Hot Wax lasts longer in dry and clean conditions than in wet, muddy, or highly contaminated environments.
As a general guideline:
- Tar / road riding: typically 800–1000 km (500–625 miles) or more per application.
- Dry gravel and dirt racing: typically around 250–300 km (150–200 miles) or more per application.
These distances are intended as practical guidelines rather than fixed service intervals. Riding style, power output, drivetrain condition, dust, water, and contamination will all influence actual longevity.
First time user:
1. Completely remove factory grease and other lubricants from your chain using a degreaser.
2. Rinse your chain with clean water and let it dry.
3. Follow the application instructions below and repeat after 5 minutes.
Application Instructions
1. Shake bottle and apply to inside of DRY chain while turning the cranks.
2. Do not wipe off.
3. Allow chain to dry completely before cycling – especially in wet conditions.
4. Do not degrease again.
A: First time user:
1. Completely remove factory grease and other lubricants from your chain using a degreaser.
2. Rinse your chain with clean water and let it dry.
3. Follow the application instructions below and repeat after 5 minutes.
Application Instructions:
1. Shake bottle and apply to inside of DRY chain while turning the cranks.
2.Do not wipe off.
3. Allow chain to dry completely before cycling – especially in wet conditions. Do not degrease again.
NOTE:
For best results in cold temperatures (to enable the water-carrier in SLT to evaporate and not freeze on the chain), apply indoors at a warmer temperature and allow to dry completely – preferably overnight.
First time user:
1. Completely remove factory grease and other lubricants from your chain using a degreaser.
2. Rinse your chain with clean water and let it dry.
3. Follow the application instructions below and repeat after 5 minutes.
Application Instructions:
1. Shake bottle and apply to inside of DRY chain while turning the cranks.
2.Do not wipe off.
3. Allow chain to dry completely before cycling – especially in wet conditions. Do not degrease again.
Follow the detailed user instructions here: Squirt Performance Hot Wax User Instructions
Yes. All Squirt Chain lubes and chain wax should be started on a clean, properly de-greased and dry chain. Factory grease on a new chain should be removed with organic solvent if needed. A second application five minutes after the first is recommended when starting out with Squirt.
Yes. All Squirt Chain Lubes and chain wax should be started on a clean, properly de-greased and dry chain. Factory grease on a new chain should be removed with organic solvent if needed. A second application five minutes after the first is recommended when starting out with Squirt.
Yes. Squirt should be started on a clean, properly de-greased and dry chain. Factory grease on a new chain should be removed with organic solvent if needed. A second application ten minutes after the first is recommended when starting out with Squirt.
Yes. For best performance, start with a clean, properly degreased, and dry chain. The factory grease on a new chain must be completely removed before your first Hot Wax treatment.
Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube is the original, first to market wax/water emulsion chain lube for use above freezing in all conditions. Low-Temperature Chain Lube: Solid wax hardens below freezing point (32℉, 0) impairing lubing function. Low-Temp contains wax modifier that keeps the wax consistency optimal at these temperatures (0℉ to 32℉, -18℃ to 0℃). E-Bike Chain Wax contains high-pressure additives to deal with generally higher rotational force on e-bike drive trains. These lubes are interchangeable but the full benefit of each negated without proper de-greasing when changing.
If stored under recommended conditions, the lube will last for many years. Stability samples of older than 15 years still retain functionality.
Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube is the original, first to market wax/water emulsion chain lube for use above freezing in all conditions. Low-Temperature Chain Lube: Solid wax hardens below freezing point (32℉, 0) impairing lubing function. Low-Temp contains wax modifier that keeps the wax consistency optimal at these temperatures (0℉ to 32℉, -18℃ to 0℃). E-Bike lube contains high-pressure additives to deal with generally higher rotational force on e-bike drive trains. These lubes are interchangeable but the full benefit of each negated without proper de-greasing when changing.
Squirt E-Bike Chain Wax should be stored between 40℉ and 95℉ with the cap on. If it freezes (below 32℉, 0℃) or dries out, it becomes thick. It can be restored to a creamy liquid by adding a little water and shaking it up (normally about 10% of water).
No, it does not clog up the valves from the inside and you will be able to top-up at any time and also inflate as you need.
In rare cases the sealant might solidify prematurely to form solid pieces of rubber in the tire. This is due to two factors; chemical contamination and CO₂ bombing with the valve at 6 o’clock (bottom) position. Chemical contamination usually occurs from the mold release agent used during the manufacturing of tires. New tires should be cleaned properly with liquid soap and rinsed with water to remove manufacturing chemical residue.
The second probable cause for solids formation (bombing at 6 o’clock position) is due to the extreme cold stream of CO₂ jetting into the puddle of sealant at the bottom of the tire. The sealant can handle sub-zero temperatures to -4 ℉ (-20℃) without freezing, but not that which comes from the sudden expansion of the high-pressure gas into the immediate surrounding low-pressure atmosphere into the puddle. This causes the sealant emulsion to solidify, hence forming lumps.
Yes, it’s normal no cause for concern.
The latex part of the sealant was absorbed into the tire to seal rubber porosity, especially in tubeless-ready tires and thin-walled racing tires which are more porous. This seals the side walls and less frequent air top-ups will be required. Remove the remainder of the translucent liquid in the tire and top-up with fresh sealant.
CO₂ can be used in emergencies with sealant, baring in mind that the bomb should only be activated with the valve at the top (i.e. 12 o’clock) position. The cold blast of gas directly into the sealant can lead to local solidification of most latex-based sealants with resulting lumps.
We recommend 3-5ml per 100ml-150ml as per the instructions on the label.
Yes, you can. There is an optimum level though where-after more kernels will not seal more effectively.
The Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate is our Bike Cleaner in most concentrated form. It is also more economically priced for those that prefer to mix their own bike cleaner in the concentration they prefer. The standard Concentrate is ideal for bike wash bays where mixing of small sachets is too time consuming. It is not as concentrated as the 30 ml sachets. The Ready-to-use Foam Spray is conveniently pre-diluted and can be sprayed directly onto your bicycle for general cleaning.
Our Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate can be used as a bike wash solution by diluting 1 x 30 ml sachet with 720 ml clean water. The most convenient way to dilute your super concentrate is to pour the contents of a 30 ml Super Concentrate Sachet into a 750 ml spray bottle and fill it with 720 ml water. Shake to make sure the concentrate is dissolved completely before using it as a bike cleaner to spray directly onto your bike. For mild degreasing, use one 1 x 30 ml sachet with 190 ml clean water. Always test your solution on a small area of the material before continuing.
Depending on how stubborn the dirt/grease that you want to remove is, the Super Concentrate can be diluted to a strengh of 1 x 30 ml sachet +190 ml water. Stronger dilutions are not recommended. Standard concentrate can be used to a dilution of 1:5 for stubborn dirt or undiluted for mild degreasing. Always test dilution on a small area of the material to ensure safety of use.
Yes, you can use the 30ml Super Concentrate in dilution of one 30 ml Super Concentrate sachet + 190 ml clean water as a mild chain degreaser (1 x 30 ml sachet + 190 ml water). The normal Concentrate can be used undiluted for this purpose. Soak the chain in the solution for at least 30 minutes, rinse with clean water and repeat if necessary.
Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is a mild and environmentally safe water-based alkaline degreaser free of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO), nonylphenol (NP) and phosphates. Although phosphates are not harmful to humans, anthropogenic (man-made) inputs of phosphorus are well known to have a significant impact on ecosystems and can damage the health of rivers and lakes (eutrophication). Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is biodegradable according to EEC Objectives 73/404/EEC (biodegradation of surfactants with a Prim.Degra. of > 90%) and does not contain any paraffin solvents, glycols or any glycol ethers.
Yes, Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is safe to use on steel, aluminum, carbon, rubber and most fabric garments.
It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application – the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.
Squirt Chain Lube is the original, first to market wax/water emulsion chain lube for use above freezing in all conditions. Low-Temp: Solid wax hardens below freezing point (32℉, 0) impairing lubing function. Low-Temp contains wax modifier that keeps the wax consistency optimal at these temperatures (0℉ to 32℉, -18℃ to 0℃). E-Bike lube contains high-pressure additives to deal with generally higher rotational force on e-bike drive trains. These lubes are interchangeable but the full benefit of each negated without proper de-greasing when changing.
For general tips on repairing and maintaining your bicycle, read this article on Bicycling Magazine’s website.







